Disembarkation and The Long Ride Home

Well, we finally come to the end of our cruise.  Its 26 June 2011 and we're headed for Vancouver CA.  Although Ann and I talked about an 0600 wakeup, I'm up at 0420 for some reason and head for the verandah of our stateroom to see the sunrise and to start up the computer without waking her.  

It seems the ship has been dragging it's heels all night.  Before we went to bed we were cruising at about 11 kts and at one point actually went into what I'd call a holding pattern, doubling back on our course to kill time.  I suppose we may have been getting in the right sequence for arrival and berthing in Vancouver.  On a few occasions while taking pics on the forward observation deck you can look up to the bridge and see the people chatting on a radio.  While we are in a hold, there are two other ships within a half-mile passing in opposite directions.  This is way more shipping activity we're seeing than anywhere other than a port on this trip, and all pretty close by, so it is noteworthy. 

This morning we're still doing just over 11 kts and are 10 nm from Vancouver at 0544.  Ann got up briefly a few minutes ago and fed us both some sudafed before climbing back under the covers for a few more winks. 

As one might expect, there's a lot more activity in the vicinity of Vancouver.  A steady stream of boats is headed north as we head for the dock. 

There is a fort guarding the entrance to the harbor at Vancouver.  

 

You can see the docks where we'll be departing just to the left of the trees.  It's the white pointy structures.

Disembarkation from a ship is a lot like getting off an airliner at an international terminal, except with a lot more people and bags.  There are long lines followed by a brief visit to customs, then long waits in the vicinity of our bags.  

This was the one place where the excellent logistical planning we'd seen throughout the trip fell down just a bit.  We had made reservations to stay an extra day in Vancouver to decompress before the final flight home.  We put purple tags on our bags the night before to help the baggage handlers get everyone's stuff in the right areas ashore, and there is in fact a purple section.  Apparently "purple people" were those who were not making immediate connections, so there is less rush to get our bags ashore.  So we waited a bit.

That would not have been a big deal if the company Holland had contracted with to take us to the airport hotel had not recently changed hands and names.  The long and the longer of it was someone forgot or lost the reserved van to take us to the airport.  So we waited, . . . . . . . . . . . . about an hour before one of the Holland expediters finally arranged cabs to take us.  Except for the long wait, this turned out alright as we got a particularly talkative cabby.  

Seems there has been an influx of Asians who have bid up property prices in the region so much that buying a home has become prohibitively expensive for native Canadians in the area.  Seems Stanley Park is the place to go as it is exquisitely beautiful.  Seems there are great places to eat right downtown.  Seems the subway system is pretty good and largely subsidized by the local government since the Olympics because it's really not economically viable but every time someone suggests it should pay for itself it becomes a big deal and the issue is dropped.  Seems this guy (French Canadian by his accent) who used to be a sailor has found a home he truly loves.   

We finally get to the airport around 1100.  This works out well as our rooms are ready by the time we arrive.  We move right in.  These are interesting rooms.  They have a great view of the runways and the surrounding terrain.  To add to the experience, many rooms (ours included) have a high powered telescope in the room so you can focus in on activity on the airport, surrounding bay, and so on. 

 

By this time we're all pretty hungry so we head for the hotel restaurant for lunch.  This is also a great move because not only is the food outstanding, but our waitress is very helpful and nearly as chatty as the cabby.  We ask her about our trip and plans for the day, looking for her suggestions.  Among other things, she runs back to her manager and grabs a handful coupons for the subway, brings maps and highlights places to see and routes to take.  She's great.  The view of the city as the subway takes us downtown is pretty good, as subways go.  Eventually the track will head underground and deposit us right back in the vicinity of the dock and the Zaandam.    

It's a little peculiar seeing her getting ready to launch for the next leg of her voyages.  She had been our home just hours ago, and now we're standing on the outside watching the crew load up for the next batch of passengers.  Interesting how quickly one can develop an affinity for things.  The fact that it was a thoroughly pleasant experience (with the exception of waiting on the docks this morning) certainly didn't hurt.

The folks in Vancouver have themselves a beautiful city, and they obviously take pains to keep it that way.  This fountain has water running down over the steps and the wall. 

Continuing the saga of floatplanes in the region, there is a tremendous amount of activity in the harbor all day long. 

This twin engined float is merely one of the larger examples.  There are an even greater number of single engine piston and turbine planes taking off and landing.  There was even one that seemed privately owned that slowly taxied out of a narrow channel lined with what appeared to be private homes, checked for a clear takeoff path, and took off.  Nice way to commute.  Can't imagine what Washington DC would make of such informality.  They'd probably want TSA to check the pilots credentials, a US Marshall aboard, the Coast Guard standing by to direct traffic, and anti-aircraft guns tracking the departure just in case . . . but I digress.

There are many interesting works of art and artifacts of the Olympics on the docks.  The tubular structure above is the Olympic torch from the games.  Each of the four segments has a torch.  They were supposed to be lit at ground level, then be raised to the pictured position.  I heard the story of how one of these failed to rise during the lighting ceremony for the actual games, leading to some quick improvisation. 

No, that is not a faulty picture above.  It just has a pixelated look because its made of what looks like oversized Leggos.  It's actually a sculpture of a whale leaping from the dock.  

We finally tire of looking at the art work and architecture and start thinking about the more important things in life -- for example, cold beer and appetizers.  And what to our wondering eyes should appear but . . .

 . . . the Steamworks.  This is an interesting place that had the added attraction of drawing huge numbers of people.
The place was jammed as we were led to the basement and a table for four.  We're seated near the food preparation area, and also near a very old bar.  Interesting art work down at the base of the bar and the kitchen.  I'd guess one could trace the evolution of local taste in artwork with this as one of the points of origin.  Or not.  Either way, there certainly was a lot of this in the basement.   

After an hour or so of relaxing and chatting, we finally make our way back out of the Steamboat and start heading to the airport.  This turns out to be more exciting than one might expect as the directions on the route map are not immediately clear.  Fortunately, we happen across a fella who detects the sure signs of tourists lost in the subway.  He's going in more or less the direction of the airport and offers to guide us where we need to go.  It's an interesting path, but eventually we do get to our train and make it back to the airport.

Everyone is tired from a long day of bag drags and walking, so everyone but Ann and I make their way back to their rooms.  Ann and I start scouting for more sudafed as our colds (bronchitis, but we don't know it yet) are getting worse.  For dinner we each eventually make our way back to the hotel restaurant.  A good meal and an after dinner drink are just the thing to get sleep in a hurry . . . but not before we watch a few late flights departing, as we will in the morning. 

The flight the next day is pretty straight forward.  An easy walk downstairs to the Delta counter.  A connection through Salt Lake City.  Our van is there at BWI when we arrive.  It was well worth the money to have someone else drive us home late in the evening.

A trip of surprises.  This was mainly Ann's trip.  She has always wanted to take a cruise to Alaska.  Me, not so much.  However, I enjoyed this trip immensely.  After growing up in Detroit, I can't see moving to Alaska's winter cold permanently as even a remote possibility.  I also don't know if coming back to "fly floats as my summer job" will ever happen though I am definitely moving float training up on my to do list.  I liked the area, liked the people, and liked the activity all around us.  Lot of good people all around.  I especially enjoyed going with Ann -- she's such a good traveler.  I can't imagine having as much fun without her.

Now I need to figure out where else she wants to go . . .  

The Last Cruise Day

It's the 25th of June 2011, our last cruise day.  We have nothing scheduled today except for a quick "Disembarkation Presentation and Crew Farewell" meeting in the Mondriaan Lounge.  This is a two deck theater, located toward the bow of the ship, where the entertainment takes place.  I've mentioned the Rotterdam Dining Room several times in these posts.  It also uses two floors with a view from the stern.  

That's where we gather for breakfast this morning.  After breakfast with the rest of our group chatting in the Rotterdam, Ann attended the Disembarkation meeting to get all the good info. 

Dan and I chat about a variety of things over breakfast.  Much of the conversation covers what govt should and should not do.  I offer that I was surprised at how practical most FAA regulations are for aviation, and how many newer regulatory suggestions sound like they were instigated by people impressed more by their bureaucratic authority than by a desire to help us fly safely.  Fortunately, our alphabets (AOPA, EAA, et al) help knock the rough edges off most of the truly egregious suggestions before they are published.  Dan seems equally concerned that govt gets too intrusive from time to time.  Good conversation.

Ann gets back from the meeting and we go for a stroll around the ship.  Below you see the Front Office, or what would be the front desk in any hotel.  Just off to the right is the desk for making additional onshore excursions.  

The brass rail you see above circles the Atrium which has a three story, functional pipe organ.  If I didn't mention it before, each Holland America ship has a theme, and the Zaandam's theme is music.  As you move about the ship, you find famous guitars, other instruments and musically oriented artwork everywhere you go.  For example, we had some debate about whose lips there are below.

Ann and I wandered the ship on several occasions and happened on the Pinnacle Grill.  The seat below was our seat during an amazing meal.  Food was great, service terrific, and the experience was definitely above average.  This was one of the places on ship where they charged an extra fee for the additional service, but it was well worth it at least once.   

We kill time for the rest of the day and a good thing too.  We've had an active schedule for the entire trip, and some down time is much appreciated.  Ann and I have a little lunch up by the pool.  She spent some time in the hot tub (below and right of the dolphins).  I did some reading and made a few notes about the day's activities.

There are TVs in each state room and there is a channel which provides the ship's current location on a moving map much like the Garmin in our Cessna and Diamond.  This particular picture is from a large screen TV in one of the hallways near the Front Office.  Today it shows us headed for Vancouver.  It also shows many of our previous destinations.

At several points we appear to be passing interesting geography so we grab the camera and head for the foreward observation deck around the corner from our stateroom or elsewhere to get a better angle.  The pics to either side are of the Crow's Nest I've mentioned elsewhere.  Tonight, this is where the Karaoke finals will be held.     

On one of these dashes to get pics, I meet Luan, a fellow photographer.  He seems to be in a chatty mood so we end up heading indoors to warm up and sit a spell.  He's an interesting guy.  Born in China, came to the US at age 7, eventually becomes a chemist at Indiana University, and works for a few large firms, concluding most recently with Roche (a Swiss outfit)  for 14 years.  Roche acquired shares of Genetec with options many years ago and recently exercised those options to take control.  In the process, they consolidated research arms and did some downsizing and outsourcing.  He seemed genuinely surprised that they outsourced some chemistry, but apparently this was good for business. 

Luan is now looking to take his investment savings and matching company funds and buy a publishing brokerage company.  The parallels to our situation are interesting.  Here is a guy, probably around age 50, who wants more control over his life and is willing to build on an established business to get that control.  The publishing brokerage business takes book publishing jobs and arranges to have books and other materials printed to specification.  In this case, Luan is trying to buy a brokerage from a Chinese fella "A1" who has most of his printing business done by his brother "A2" in China.  It gets interesting in that A1 wants to move on, and apparently so does A2, but without A1, A2 could conceivably lose 80% of his business (totalling $1.7M / yr for A1).

Without this income from A1, A2's business loses substantial value.  Of course, Luan argues that he is willing to work with A2 and make certain guarantees.  A contract was to have been signed just before embarking on this trip, but at the last minute, A2 (I think) wanted to have his lawyers take a look at the situation.  So Luan apparently wanted an ear to bounce this off of.  As luck would have it, I have two.  Well, time flies.  Ann finally tracked me down and advised it is 1650 - ten minutes until our final dinner in the Rotterdam.  After giving Luan my Cap Holdings card, we head for dinner. 

Don and Janice, tablemates with our group of six in the Rotterdam for dinner each evening during the cruise, say this is always a special night.  We don't have long to find out what they mean.  The entire kitchen and serving staff puts on a show, marching in with flags flying to serve the first course.  Salads follow another march, but this time all the servers are spinning plates on sticks as they march around all the tables, and the salad mixing and preparation is a show itself.  Our two servers, Win who seems to be the head server for a few tables in our area, and Yunus, a particularly engaging young man, are interesting contrasts.  Win mentioned yesterday that he does not have any particular show skills, but I didn't know to what he was referring.  By contrast Yunus is playful and really gets into the act.  If we ever do this in the future, we'll have to remember to bring a camera on the final night.

Dinner is finally over, and a lot of pictures are taken of the six of us with Win and Yunus before heading off to start packing.  Bags need to be outside our door by 2400 this evening to be moved to a staging area for disembarkation.  Lot of little decisions to be made.  There were six bottles of wine in the room when we arrived, a gift from our travel agent, I'm told.  Even after inviting the other four in our party down for drinks one evening we still have 4 bottles left over.  Looks like our stateroom manager Abdul will be able to share some with the rest of the staff. 

Norma is competing again this evening in a karaoke contest, so after a variety show attended by the rest of our group we head up to the Crow's Nest to see the competition.  As a practical matter, its all the same folks who participated in karaoke a few nights back, but this time the crew set up an American Idol format with three judges and a mild critique for each performer.  Everyone has their own cheering section, so it gets pretty loud at times. 

Finally back to the stateroom for final packing.  Ann is not feeling well.  She has a runny nose and her throat is getting sore from drainage (recall how the lady said Bronchitis is not contagious). Not good timing, but we both take a sudafed and hit the rack around 1130.

Ketchikan AK

It's 24 June 2011 and we're up early again to see the docking procedure in Ketchikan AK.  Actually, that's not entirely accurate.  If the helicopter flight to the glacier at Denali was Ann's highlight for the trip, a floatplane ride back into the mountains around Ketchikan is mine.  I'm ready to go.  Unfortunately, the ride to Misty Fjords in a DeHaviland Beaver isn't until later today.  Ann eventually sets off to shop, but to a certain extent I'm killing time until then.  

There is a lot of float plane activity even in the early morning.  We got some good videos of takeoffs and landings from the forward deck of the Zandaam.    

We have yet another quick breakfast in the Rotterdam, then off to walk around Ketchikan.  It takes about five minutes to get downtown from dock 4 (called the new dock further north of downtown on the map).

This is a small town of maybe 8000 during the summer, 13K including the suburbs (defined as the rest of the island).  It gets much smaller during the winter.

While Haines had more of a folksy, home town feel, Ketchikan feels much more blue collar.  Part of this feeling may be that before getting off the ship, we observed a crew repairing a street constructed on the side of the hill where most of the city is built.  The city seems to benefit from tourism, but seems to have an economy running side by side with tourism.  We see construction as well as an active harbor.


There is active fishing in the area, leading to the town's claim as the salmon capital of the world. 

There were four cruise ships in port, but a bus driver we chatted with outside the library said he thought it was not a particularly busy day.  Looking up and down the streets I  could not disagree.   A few years ago in Key West if four ships were docked, Duval Street would have been a mad house of activity.  Here, the activity was pretty sparse. 

There are a lot of shops in the downtown area.  Art favors typical Alaskan subjects, but like Trader Jack's in Anchorage there are some very nice pieces scattered about. 

Ann and I have lunch on the pier.  We ask around and are directed to one particular vendor.  He has a particularly spicy / peppery chowder that is quite good.  As we are eating, more of our group wander to the dock vendors and we compare notes on the day's activities.  Ann finds a quilt shop on the second street from the docs and vanishes for about a half hour while searching for more fabric.  I'm just hanging around, taking pictures . . .

. . . until finally, FINALLY, it's time for the float plane ride. 

We take a short bus ride from the dock to their float planes about five minutes north.  After a short wait, Bryan, our pilot, calls six of us to go to the plane.  On the way I ask if the right seat is taken, and promise not to scream, sob uncontrollably or grab for the controls if I can get up front.  The tradeoff is Ann gets a seat in the far back.  According to her this is the best seat in the plane since she has the seat to herself and is able to move to either side of the plane to get the best views.  In addition, the struts were not in the way back there. 

Four aircraft load, head for the channel and take off in sequence.  Each takes a slightly different route back into the mountains.  Bryan puts on some relaxing New Age (I think) music, but one of the advantages of the right seat is I can also follow the chatter. 

This is a great ride.  There are a broken to overcast stratus at around maybe 2 - 3K with wisps at the ridge lines.  The ride is smooth.  We never get above 1500 ft.  He flies a very comfortable route with easy banks to allow terrific views.  It's a little disorienting in the Beaver with the trim on the ceiling.  Flaps are a lever on the floor between the seats.  The Beaver has a nice panel with Chelton glass.

Bryan says you don't flare for landings - just fly her onto the water.  Sounds like landing a Piper.  After the flight, we ask Bryan what it takes to fly with this company.  He says you just need to get your seaplane rating and show up.  I suspect it may involve more than that, but one must always plan ahead for that rainy day when you need a summer job to occupy your time.  For that reason, I have plans to get my float rating next spring.  My partner in a C-182 RG says Brown's in Florida has a very good program.     

Well, back to the ship and another dinner in the Rotterdam.  We've fallen into a comfortable pattern each evening.  After dinner tonight there is a show of Broadway Hits, then drinks at the piano bar or in the Crows nest, desserts on the Lido Deck, and finally to bed. 

On a few nights there's been a Karaoke contest in the Crow's Nest.  One of our group actually has both the talent and the voice to compete.  She makes it to the finals at the end of the week.